Started off slowly this morning, as I was feeling funny because of the jet leg.
In the morning I had such an amazing excursion...we went biking to the Marines military base in Kaneohe! I was lucky enough to be with my roommate who has a pass to get in the military restricted zone. I have never been in a army living area, and I was really impressed by how well they live and the amount of great facilities they have access to in the neighbourhood. Was so funny to stroll through it on our bikes. Then they made get off my bike cause a helmet is required inside their zone, so I was running barefoot and just in my boardshorts behind my friend who was instead biking with his helmet...it was really funny.
Going through the military base we went to my first surf break on Oahu: Pyramids. Funny to say, not even locals have access to this great spot due to it being higly restricted, and I visit it as my first spot! Ahahah
The sickest thing was getting to the surf spot: we had to cross a plane runway!! After we passed with our bikes, a huge military was taking off!!
The spot is pretty hardcore, boling and choppy cristal clear water, big and steep waves, and very strong current. And on top of all that the lifeguards were putting on signs of "No swimming" and "Jellyfish in the water". So I asked them what was up, and they told me yesterday a lot of Portoguese man-of-war washed up on the beach. Only 3 or 4 pretty sick "soldiers" were on the water. Really nice spectacle for a first visit to Oahu's surfing mecca! On top of that there were huge military planes taking off from the base and passing right on our heads!! What an experience...
So, after a little run back through the base (no flip flops), a bit of a bike back to Kailua, and a little stop at Kailua beach to check the wind (was light, people were struggling with 12m), I was totally in "surfing-mode". So I managed to get a ride to... WAIKIKI!! Or, as my brother would say..."Waiii waiii waii waiii chiiccchiii!". What a great place that is also! A big city with beautiful Ocean on the side, and tooonssss of people out surfing. There, the wind is offshore, so it's nice and flat near the beaches for people to chill and swim, and 50m or so off the beach nice glassy head high waves (depending on the break) break on the reef that surrounds the whole island. There's breaking waves pretty much all around the perimeter down there, as far as the eye can see, left and right.And people surfing everywhere! I've never seen anything like that.
So after such a long walk/run to find myself a shortboard, and a run back to the Ocean, I went in the water for a surf. The break I surfed was MOANA BOWLS, right in front of the Hilton Hotel. After that I paddled 2 breaks over, to ROCKPILE. There I caught suchhh sweetttt waves. Super long, head high and clean! The conditions there are just perfect, light offshore breeze, cristal clear shallow water (it seems like it's never more than 3m deep), and nice mellow but fairly big waves rolling in steadily. It's like surfing in a pool with an artificial wave! Surfing those waves was such an intense experience, I was laughing so hard for the joy!!
After a few hours, at sunset, I came back out. It's unbelieavable the amount of people being active on shore. Everybody was running, doing exercises together, stretching in group, doing yoga. There are even kinda like mini outdoor gym in the park, with a few facilities to some simple exercises.
Later on I caught a bus back to Kailua, still dripping in water. I got off too early at the bus stop, and didn't kow exactly where I was. Saw a shuttle driver in his van taking a break, so I asked him where the hell I was. He told me I was miles and miles away from where I needed to go, and so he gave me a ride there! After having thanked him so much, the local hawaiian driver told me: "No worries man! It's the Aloha spirit!".
Oh yeah, this morning I forgot the battery in my camera, so no pics! In the afternoon, I didn't bring it, so that not to leave anything on the beach! Next time!
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